A First Ardnamurchan Holiday

From Marc Gerard:

I first stumbled across The Kilchoan Diary whilst searching the web for snippets of information a few days before a first visit to Ardnamurchan in 2009. The Diary has since become essential regular viewing, helping to keep memories fresh and spanning the interminable gaps between what has turned out to be three subsequent stays in that wonderful part of the world. Having got so much out of the Diary, it seemed only fair that I should try to give something back, although I’ll leave it to others to decide what that “something” actually is.

That first week’s holiday was based in a holiday rental on the slopes above Laga Bay – a property which has a glazed south elevation on the ground floor making the most of the views over Loch Sunart to the Isle of Carna, the mouth of Loch Teacuis and the hills of Morvern beyond. It is fair to say that Ardnamurchan immediately endeared itself to us and the meandering drive from Strontian was fully justified (I’m convinced that all the distances quoted on the road signs have zeroes missing from the end of them). The possibility of returning was already being mooted.

The annual pilgrimage to the Highlands has been in place for over ten years now and the west coast very quickly became the area of the country most favoured, this being initially established through several visits to Skye. So far, the pattern of our Scottish holidays has been the same; a fortnight in holiday cottages with each week being spent at a different location. 2009 saw us decamp to Laga from the Kingairloch Estate in Morvern.

The Laga Bay house left us wanting for nothing, although the water supply proved briefly temperamental fed as it was from what was referred to as the Thief’s Burn. Detailed instructions for re-establishing the flow to the house had been left should things go wrong and the whole process was actually a bit of a mini-adventure – hardly finding the source of the Nile, but interesting nonetheless. Note to self: never criticise mains water supplies again. Overall, splendid. We could come back to this one.

Low cloud predominated during the week, so heading for the hilltops was off the menu as we don’t really climb just to end up staring into a grey blanket, but a couple of quick walks up to Loch Laga were enough to establish that the scope for exploring in better conditions was considerable – a reason for returning. Usefully, a fairly distinct track leading to the loch started next to the house, passed what looked like an old sheep fank, and then climbed onwards quite efficiently. This track is eventually joined from the west by one rising from Glenborrodale and then, beyond Loch Laga, drops into Acharacle. We still recall cowering beside the loch’s boathouse as a wild rainstorm rattled through the glen, but the walk back down eventually gave fine views over Loch Sunart with the light playing wonderful tricks.

A visit to the lighthouse on a rather blustery day gave a taste of what things might be like when the elements really take over, although that pre-holiday research caused frustration with repeated mention of “on a clear day we’d be able to see…” Pointing the camera directly into the mist and spray was definitely not advisable that day, but the view back towards Sanna Point was irresistible and gave a hint of Ardnamurchan’s slightly more rugged north coast.

With the weather improving slightly on the journey back from the lighthouse the decision was made to take a detour, cross the caldera (sorry if this term is technically incorrect, but it’s a great word), and visit Sanna Bay. Stunning, deserted, but just a bit too blowy for wandering about – another reason for returning.

Being so close to Ardnamurchan Charters’ base gave the promise of an interesting day out should the weather improve, and lo and behold later in the week it did. The decision was simple, my brother and I would rent one of their boats and head out – two chaps, outboard motor, sat-nav, marine radio, what could possibly go wrong? Food and drink packed and safety briefing properly absorbed, we set off into the wide, faintly grey yonder. Having got across into Loch Teacuis we were, almost as promised, immediately presented with common seals hauled-out onto rocks – tricky to spot at first, but once we got our eyes in they were all over the place, and some seemed keen to swim over and have a nosey at us. Turning off the motor and quietly and carefully drifting provided great sights (and not so great smells!). Having got to grips with the onboard navigation and depth-finding equipment, we decided to set off to round the Cape, well, to go round Oronsay into Loch na Droma Buidhe, actually. However, there was now a bit of a chop on and our nerves gave out when we had to turn side on to the waves – mission aborted, but yet another reason to return. A brilliant half day spent pootling about on the gin-clear water appreciating the environment from a different perspective.

On other days, hours were spent simply staring out from the house, looking at the sky, taking in the ever-changing light and colours, spotting sea eagles cruising past, watching the red deer make their morning commute into the hills and hearing the roaring of the stags. Tales of a jam sandwich munching pine marten coming to the windows proved hollow – maybe if we came back again...

All too soon departure day arrived. Each mile of the twelve hour journey home demanded a steely resolve in order to resist the temptation to just turn round and head back north. Ardnamurchan had scored highly.

Plans were being set for the 2010 return, and it would turn out to be well worthwhile...