In Search of Ancient Structures

Some time ago, we stumbled upon several stone structures on the southern slopes of Ben Hiant - so long ago that the purpose of yesterday's walk, prompted by beautiful weather, was to see if we could find them again.

The easiest access is from the Salen-Kilchoan road, the B8007, about two miles to the west of Camas nan Geall, at the point on the map above marked with a 133m spot height.  The approach is therefore diagonally up what is otherwise a fairly steep slope, but.... 

....it's a super part of the walk because, laid out below, is the extensive area of once-worked arable land called The Basin.  All over it are straight ditches, low walls, and the signs of lazy beds....

....across which the modern road passes.  None of it is worked today, and the people who did work it some two hundred years ago are scattered to the four corners of the world, leaving it to the bracken and sheep.

At the point marked '1' on the map are three stone structures, one in the foreground of this picture, one behind it, and the other further down the slope to the right.  It's very difficult to tell what they were, whether small enclosures or byres for animals, sheiling houses, or something much more ancient.

Walking on, we found the valley between Ben Hiant and Stellachan Dubha crowded with red deer hinds, at least fifty of them, which, despite or perhaps because of a careful approach, showed that they were well aware of our presence and took off up the slope.

The site we were looking for, '2', lies beyond this knoll, in one of the many small valleys that drain Ben Hiant - and it is because there are so many, and it is tucked into a depression, that it's difficult to find.

It's very frustrating not knowing what these structures once were.  Because they lie in such a beautiful setting, with a wonderful view out across the mouth of Loch Sunart, one is tempted to decide they are ancient burial cairns, each concealing the bones of some great Viking chief - perhaps three generations of the same family who were lords of the Viking village at Camas nan Geall (for which, sadly, there is no evidence).

Turning back, we passed more hinds, but in small groups, many of them more curious than worried.  With this particular group no attempt was made to conceal our approach, so they seemed much more willing to let us come close before they set off up the hill.

Descending the last slope to the car we found these earthy mounds.  Moles aren't common around here, the largest colony being beside the new road beyond Strontian.  How this isolated group come to be here is a mystery, but perhaps their ancestors were brought here by the Vikings hundreds of years ago, and their pelts provided the three chiefs whose tombs lie further up the hill with fine moleskin waistcoats.

An interactive map of the area is here.