Monday 22 February 2010

Portuairk

For any astro-physicist who might still be looking for the centre of the universe, look no further, for here it is: Portuairk.

I was told this fundamental fact soon after our arrival in Kilchoan and, as the years have passed, have come to realise that, since there must be a centre to the universe, Portuairk, permanent population 11, richly deserves the title, for it's a lovely little village. It's the most westerly settlement on the British mainland, a couple of miles from Ardnamurchan Point and looking northeast across Sanna Bay to Sanna, from where the above picture was taken: the path in the foreground connects the two villages.

While there is some uncertainty about the derivation of its name - one suggestion being that it is derived from the Norse meaning muddy bay, which it isn't - Portuairk probably comes from port shobhrag, Gaelic, meaning the bay of little primroses, which describes it beautifully.
The picture above shows the village from the hill to the west, and includes every house. In the old days many of these were croft houses, but Portuairk's popularity as a holiday destination and a place to retire has led to the building of a number of new houses. Despite this, there are several active crofts which use the neat fields within the village as well as the extensive common grazing available to the township.

The view above is from the narrow road which leads down into the village. Amongst its many attractions is its beach, which is very safe for children, its enclosed bay, which offers a haven for small boats, and the views it has across the sea to the islands of Muck, Rhum and Canna.

Portuairk's one, small disadvantage is that high hills to its south shield it from the winter sun. But no village, not even the one privileged to be at the centre of our existence, can be totally perfect.

5 comments:

  1. Sorry Jon. You've got this one wrong. The centre of the universe lies at Branault about seven miles further east along the north coast!

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  2. What a beautiful village, spectacular views and beaches with white sand and grass so green, I can believe this could be the ideal centre of the universe, a place to aspire to!

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  3. Lovely Blog you have here.
    Two friends and I will be descending upon Kilchoan on the 27th of March for a week, we are enthusiastic wildlife photographers and very much looking forward to our visit, also a trip to Mull is a must whilst we are in the area.
    I have been pouring over the Map of the area, I think a week is not going to be long enough :)
    Regards
    Rhona

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  4. Many thanks for your kind comment, Rhona. If you're interested in wildlife photography, contact Ricky at Ardnamurchan Estate and see what they can offer you.

    I hope you have a great holiday here.

    Jon

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  5. Thanks Jon,
    I missed your reply, didn't get the usual email notification !!

    I have sent an email to the Estate, so fingers crossed :)
    Regards
    Rhona

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