Friday 8 October 2010

In Search of Carn Mhuchdragain

Some time in the late 13th century, Muchdragan - Mac Righ Lochluinn - the last Norwegian chief of Ardnamurchan, was moving with his followers westwards along the track which leads from Camas nan Geall towards Kilchoan. As he was passing below the forbidding north flank of Beinn na h-Urchrach (the hill of the throw, above), he was confronted by one of his vassals, Evun Cleireach.

Evun had been warned that Muchdragan intended to visit his house, and was certain that the purpose of this was to take advantage of his rights as overlord to Evun's beautiful wife. In the altercation which followed, Evun threw his tuaghairm, his axe, killing his master, turned, and fled up a steep valley, along the ridge of the hill, and down to the beach at Sgur nan Eun (or Sgur Chuil Eoghainn), Evun's skerry, NM512631.


The point where Muchdragan fell is marked by a cairn. To find it, we left the car just before the milepost marking 6 miles to Kilchoan, to the south of Loch Mudle, and walked westwards along the rough track that marks the route of the old road to Kilchoan, following in Muchdragan's footsteps. Once the first steep section is overcome, it's rough but passable going, though the track disappears at times, but the cairn is easily found, just off the way to the north of the waterfall marked on the OS map at NM535642.

The stream that forms the waterfall - seen here from Mucdragan's cairn - has cut the steep valley up which Evun fled, chased by the chief's men. In the same way as the name of the hill celebrates Evun's throw, this valley is called Glac na Toire, the hollow of pursuit.

As we rested below the waterfall, looking up the steep slope that Evun had scaled, a young stag stood at the top staring down at us.

A full account of Evun's confrontation with Muchdragan is here, about half way down, and a map of the walk here.

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