Much of West Ardnamurchan was once covered in trees but it must now be one of the most tree-less places in Britain. By contrast, the north shore of Loch Sunart, along which the road to Kilchoan runs, is one of the few places in Scotland where the original thick, temperate oakwoods still survive. That the woodland has gone is further evidence of the large population this area once supported.
One of the few places where the original woodland is still visible is at Garbh-dhail. It can be reached by walking south from the Sonachan Hotel but we approached it from the northeast, from the Kilchoan-Achosnich road. On our way we passed Lochan an Aodainn (the lochan of faces), with the craggy heights of Beinn na h-Imeilte (the hill of many stream) beyond.
It was hard walking across heather and bog dissected by numerous small streams which have dug themselves into narrow ditches in the peat, ideal places to fall and turn an ankle. To our south loomed the dark lump of Beinn na Seilg (the hill of hunts).
As we neared our objective, the view opened up to the south, across the woodland that leads down to the Sonachan, and across the valley to the tiny crofting hamlet of Achosnich. The islands of Muck and Rhum lie in the distance.
Finally, we looked down into a sharply-defined valley which cuts south, coming out at the Sound of Mull some four kilometres away. This has formed along the line of a fault which runs radially out from the old volcanic centre. And in the bottom of this valley nestle the woodlands of Gargh-dhail.
The walk was done in good conditions, during dry, winter weather following several sharp frosts. Please note that there is no mobile signal. Total distance about 5km. A map showing the area is here.
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