October Weather

October is one of the best months of the year in Kilchoan. It's a month of rainbows, of lipid sunshine and sudden showers, of turning leaves in Sunart's ancient oak woods, of golden brown where the bracken dies across the braes above the village. It's a month of contrasts. Yesterday we enjoyed warm sun as we walked on the north coast. Today the wind is a southeaster, Force 6 gusting 7 and rising, bringing low cloud, heavy rain, and a sharp chop across the Sound of Mull.

Before we came to the village we read Alasdair Maclean's "Night Falls on Ardnamurchan" in which the old Sanna crofter's diary is published. His main topic in each day's entry is the weather. We didn't understand then. We do now. The weather controls the place, its contrasts form it. The changes, hour by hour, are sudden, unpredictable and, occasionally, dangerous. The BBC may be proud of its weather forecasts but they simply don't work here.

The family has gone across to Tobermory. They'll have had a bouncy crossing as the small ferry is on at the moment – little more than a landing craft which carries only four cars. On the other side they'll enjoy hot chocolate in The Chocolate Factory and, despite having to eat it in the rain, the excellent fish and chips served from the van by the harbour. If the wind doesn't rise still more they'll catch the last ferry back, the 3.45; otherwise they'll have to spend the night in Tobermory.