Deserted Villages

One of the tragedies of the Western Highlands has been the loss of its people. Two hundred years ago, Western Ardnamurchan had a population estimated at ten times its present one and, therefore, as in so many things, Ardnamurchan offers a window into Scottish history. The evidence lies in three abandoned villages which lie within a few miles of Kilchoan: Plocaig, near Sanna, Glendrian, near Achnaha, and the most visible, Camas nan Geall, easily spotted from the main road into the village. Glendrian was occupied until a few decades ago. One house, the Hendersons', still has all its walls standing, though its roof and upper storey collapsed some years ago.

A visit to any of the three villages is both an enjoyable and moving experience. Camas nan Geall is probably most easily reached, from the car park at Ardslignish, some seven miles out of the village on the B8007 Salen road. It also has an ancient graveyard with stones bearing Celtic inscriptions. But for anyone who enjoys a pleasant walk along a track, with little chance of meeting anyone and only a small stream as an obstacle along the way, there is nothing to beat the lonely splendour of Glendrian. Glendrian lies in a bowl formed by steep, craggy hills; a small burn runs through its peaceful valley; one can see, quite clearly, the field system - an old horse-drawn plough lies abandoned beside the path. For anyone with the stamina, a rough track beyond the village leads to the small cove on the north coast where Glendrian's fishing boats were kept. Look carefully and a small, stone jetty is visible.

All three villages are eerie places. Standing in them, one can imagine how the village lived. There are some who swear that, if you sit in peace and silence, and listen, you will hear the voices of the village's lost inhabitants. They are scattered. A few stayed locally, but most left, for cities like Glasgow or opportunities far further afield, in Canada, Australia and New Zealand.